dubbingblock

[William Anderson]

Ruard, your solution for the wire and silk block is really nice. I'm going to have to make one. The only issue is being able to clamp it to my bench top. (maybe mount a post in it and put in a vise base =) ) using dougs block is a nice touch as well. Thanks Doug.

dd, I like that device as well. For making those long uniform wire brushes it is a very cool design. In can see a use for those bodies on larger flies.

Ray, thanks for posting the Ruard sequence. I never got tired of watching him make those bodies.

Did anyone get a sequence of Carl making the sparse tapered flymph bodies on his nor vise perch?

[letumgo]

dd - Very cool dubbing twister. Thank you for the link. This toy is bound to show up on my Christmas wish list!

[Mataura mayfly]

I always thought some kind of magnet system might be a good way of holding a dubbing block to the bench. Means adding a metal inly to the bench or the back of the block,vice-versa or, magnets in both, but would keep it anchored- but not permanent. If your pedestal base were magnetic though........
The pedestal mount sure looks practical.

[daringduffer]

The dubbing twister I linked to is in itself overkill for me. The Dick Clark block is sufficient. The one I have is custom made for me as a gift, with a suede lined bottom, so I don't want to mess with it. Have to make another one, equipped with a dowel to fit in a pedestal, just to try the concept.

dd

[Old Hat]

I always thought some kind of magnet system might be a good way of holding a dubbing block to the bench. Means adding a metal inly to the bench or the back of the block,vice-versa or, magnets in both, but would keep it anchored- but not permanent. If your pedestal base were magnetic though........
The pedestal mount sure looks practical.

That's a great idea Jeff.

[William Anderson]

Jeff, you have no doubt been reading my thoughts. My whole tying station/desk is steel and magnet based. I've covered three 12"x12" 16ga steel plates in black velvet. It's been an evolution, but even my travel set up works this way. I have a Clark block fitted with a couple ceramic magnets and it locks tight. Although I find I like to shift around when using the blocks and my favorite drill has the leather sole. For this wire dubbing brush block the magnets are a very natural solution. Maybe a designated wooden traditional block maybe a couple inches longer. Add it to the list...

[DOUGSDEN]

Ladies and Gents and especially Ruard,
Wow! It's nice to see my poplar blocks hard at work! Ruard, it is sooo cool to see you (in the photo sequence) making the wire core dubbing brushes! I really need to explore this avenue more! What a great way to make good looking and durable dubbing bodies! Are you sure you can't come back to America soon and show me the finer points of making these brushes?
Great stuff everyone! My day just got a whole bunch brighter! I will be thinking of these things!
Doug

[Ruard]

Ladies and Gents and especially Ruard,
Wow! It's nice to see my poplar blocks hard at work! Ruard, it is sooo cool to see you (in the photo sequence) making the wire core dubbing brushes! I really need to explore this avenue more! What a great way to make good looking and durable dubbing bodies! Are you sure you can't come back to America soon and show me the finer points of making these brushes?
Great stuff everyone! My day just got a whole bunch brighter! I will be thinking of these things!
Doug

Hi Doug,

The Netherlands are such a good country, I decided to stay here. I must thank you that you gave me the piece of wood to make a dubbingblock for two purposes. Remark: to make a brush with wire is more easy than to make one with silk.

greeting

[gingerdun]

Ruard and all,
I'm enjoying following this link. There seems to be no end of possibilities for ingenious ways of spinning bodies—with a block or without.
Here is a modified photograph, based on one that I posted here recently, but I add it again since it relates to a couple of ideas discussed in this string.
One part of the technique here is to spin the wire in the fingers with a wire clip attached to the two loose ends of the wire.
The second part of the technique is to have a lip on the edge of the work table (1/8" is enough) to stop the block when tugging on the wire during the spinning process. I like the magnet idea better, but I already had the lip on the table, so it works for me.

I use this block only for wire, since the wire widens the notches more than you want for holding silk.

[DOUGSDEN]

Ladies and gentlemen,
I am just giddy over this thread and all the great idea's that have sprang up over it and around it! D.D., the photo you posted of the block is just down-right cool! I could not imagine such a great concept, not in a hundred years. Very nice indeed! Ruard, so wonderful to see the poplar block I gave you coming into such good hands that have such good ideas! Who would have thought of that? You would, of course! Lance, I am picking up my jaw off the floor right now after viewing your photos and watching the wire and fur come together so nicely just like Ruards! How fine can the wire go before it becomes impractical to twist without breaking? I have some differing wires in my boxes and I think I will make this my late summer experimenting! I am curious to know about the wires and what anyone has as far as background and previous trials and errors!
Has anyone tried the two-toned approach to twisted/spun flymph bodies? Back 2/3's one color and the remaining one third a contrasting or complimenting color? I realize this might make for some tricky tying to get the proportions to come out right but it might be worth a try, eh?
Curious in the den,
Dougsden