Favorite Hooks

[William Anderson]

I'm enjoying the posts and I've always recognized that while my collection is broad, my understanding of the various hooks available then and now is shallow. I've been tying on the Daiichi line for the past 8 years or so and find my flies seem awkward on other types. The 1530 and 1550 for most of my wet flies, the 1250 for a variety of soft-hackles and flymphs and 1180 dry fly hook and 1560 nymph hook for a majority of my tying. I've enjoyed the vintage Mustad hooks in the past couple of years, but I admit I don't know enough about them to pit one against the other. I'd rather stick with my standard line with all confidence in the steel, points and proportions of the Daiichi line.

I'll read this post with great interest as others post favorites for specific purposes and why. It's been a lot of fun tying on obscure hooks that friends have sent and I'd like to feel like I know more about the when and why for these hooks.

thanks everyone for keeping this interesting.

w

[Kelly L.]

Enjoyed the info thus far. I guess y'all know I was on the Mustad website printing stuff on their classic hooks, and classic-signature hook line. I will be putting this extra data into my HOOK NOTEBOOK. Yes, you heard that right. I have a small notebook full of stuff on hooks, charts, info such as comparable hook lists, you name it. I have those plastic covers on the pages, so they won't wear out. Sometimes it is just easier to have it all in one place. A girl has got to do, what she's gotta do. Feel free to make your own hook obsession book. I even stuck a diagram picture of a hook on the front of the notebook, for special effect. I don't know anyone else who has a book like mine. It is a great idea, feel free to get that printer warmed up for your own hook notebook...lol. You can thank me later when you need to go out and buy more expensive ink for that darn printer.

[crazy4oldcars]

Mustad 3906 and 3906B here, too. I will, ocassionally, use an R50 or old style 92840 if I want to try to keep it in the film.
I have a few Daiichi light wire hooks.
The last time I bought hooks, I tried the Green Caddis Outfitters (GCO) hooks advertised on FTF. So far, no complaints on quality or consistency. Micro barbed, so they're easy to mash down. I haven't had to sharpen any. The price is the big draw right now. 50% off thru the end of the year. Sizes limited at $1.98 per 25. (No affiliation, just a customer.)

Kirk

[DUBBN]

These are as of now.



I ordered a box of 50 from Amazon.com. I was going to give 25 to me buddy. We are going to tie some "Pig Stickers". I received 500 hooks for 5.99. I have tried to square the mistake up with Amazon, but I did not get far. So, now, these are my favorite hooks.

[Kelly L.]

Congrats, that is a heck of a deal.

[Mataura mayfly]

Wayne, looks like you are going to be serving up some big Caddis patterns...... for a while!

I like what I can get in fly hooks. Selection is pretty limited and pretty pricey in NZ.
I am a big fan of Kamasan. B175's like you see Hans use a fair bit and Ruard, (but I do not heat straighten the eye). The B830 for a long shank sub surface fly. The 420 Sedge is a nice strong Caddis style hook with a slight hump back and wide gape, I like them for the front "working fly" in a team when I tie another trailing fly off the bend. The 401 and 405 are nice surface of in the film hooks, lighter wire and weight, but still strong enough for NZ sized trout.
Black Magic hooks are not a bad deal here, strong, sharp and in a good variation of size & shape in those stores that carry them. As an added bonus they come in packs of 30 for around the same price of other brands 25 packs.
The other main player here is Tiemco, the 100 is a good surface/film light wire hook and the 102Y is a nice forged sub surface wet fly hook.

Of late I have been ordering old Mustad stock from Kenhook. Some nice looking styles and shapes for wet flies, the prices are ideal compared to modern local market hooks and the service has been pretty sharp. Unfortunately the hooks are not (sharp) and for use require honing.
Since I started using these Mustad's catch numbers are down, not just from the hooks- the trout have not been playing the game with me regardless of hook choice, but I have noticed a few serious "hits" while using these that have not ended up in good hook-up's...... maybe I was not concentrating as strikes have been few and far between, or maybe my honing of the points was not up to scratch.
One thing I REALLY like on these old Mustad's is the size of the eye. It must be near twice the diameter of modern hooks and are very easy to thread even in low light conditions.

[DUBBN]

Wayne, looks like you are going to be serving up some big Caddis patterns...... for a while!

Or Ginormous Stone nymphs.





Wish I would have made the first wrap on the abdomen tighter.

[Kelly L.]

Jeff, I agree about the larger eyes, in many older hooks. When you have trouble seeing, the last thing you want, is to spend time trying to thread a very small eye. I got a little magnetic threader, and I hope it works well for me. You just stick the hook up to the magnetic part, and then push the tippet into it. Sounds simple enough. I will try it out when I get to go fishing again. The weather has been bad here. First brutal cold, then hot, now severe thunderstorms, bringing another cold front. That is a shame, because I am more than ready to go try out the fishing again.

[gingerdun]

For a round bend, fine wire hook, but with a mini-barb, I have started using the Orvis 1523. Nice compromise between traditional and contemporary. Made in sizes 8 to 22.



I'm considering buying this Orvis Caddis Emerger hook. Made in sizes 10 to 22. The only thing that holds me back is that I have so many barbless hooks in this same shape. But I like mini-barbs, so I'll probably give this a try. Any thoughts about mini barbs in general? How harmful are they to the trout?



Wayne, I got a laugh from your post about the Mustad 500-pack of 37160, size 6. Those should last you for a while.

[tie2fish]

The mini-barbs are fine with me, as they take less effort to mash down; the smaller "bump" that a mashed down mini-barb leaves behind is enough to solve the problem of numerous LDRs that I experienced with truly barbless hooks.