I confess my faulty memory led me to write that the 721 is 70% beeswax when it should be 70% rosin. Sorry for any confusion.

Bill

For those who like to “roll their own”.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... 0-MwzgS1h-

Jacobsen wrote that he thought the discoloration was caused by sheep bugs and urine. I don't know; he might be right. I think it could be canary stain.

https://www.hobbyfarms.com/whats-yellow ... ps-fleece/

I'm sorry I said anything about it at all. Everyone's experience is different. Since I deal with mass quantities I don't get overly upset about replacing a piece of wax. I've tossed pounds of fails.

My point is simply that if an old piece of wax has hardened I don’t how it could be reversed. Since most of the 721 formula is beeswax it should last a long time.

Wax has a shelf life. The oil in wax polymerizes. An example is linseed oil on wood. I try to reduce oxidation in wax by either minimizing the amount of oil or with antioxidants. Leisenring’s wax formula by percentage is approximately: 85% rosin 10% beeswax 5% lard In Nolte’s 721 wax formula the per...

Ray, I contacted the farm you mentioned and got a positive response.Thanks! I’ve also received several others so I’m hopeful that I will have more.

It’s a fine, 2 ply yarn used in needlework. The reason it is/was recommended for fly tying is because the wool is more lustrous than knitting wool. The brand I use is Appleton. It shreds into an exceptional wool dubbing.

I completely forgot that I have a copy of Sylvester Nemes book "Spinners". I might have too many books.