"I dubbed Leisenring fashion"

[Soft-hackle]

No defense or offense, Hans. After looking at the statement, I realized that, today, other techniques do yield similar results. At the time I originally wrote that, it was to intentionally show others that some techniques work better-especially for tying wets. At that point in time that method yielded the best looking wet fly bodies. The technique, now, may seem a bit archaic in nature with all the new tools and developments, techniques. It works for me, however, without a hitch, and I've seen it serve others well over the years. I can only hope that someday, I'll master the split thread technique as well as I have this one. I haven't given up, yet.

Yes, indeed, there are many ways to "skin a cat" (God!, being an animal lover- that phrase sounds horrible. "Skin a cat!" I wonder where it came from. )

Mark

[Jim Slattery]

Ok, I'll bite.
It is quite clear that the Liesenring technique gives the "SPUN BODY"a diferrent effect than either the split thread or conventional dubbing loop which is made by using the tying thread. The difference is Leisenring's technique adds another force (Friction) to the spinning process. The addition of friction allows one to use less dubbing than the standard dubbing loop, yet the friction creates volume giving the spun body a full and very translucent dubbing. The Friction does not trap all of the dubbing which gives the spun body a spiky effect as well but not quite as spiky as split thread, touch dub or conventionional dubbing loop bodies.
If you use the spinning block to replicate the spun body make sure that the block is not flat and that it has a convex surface as this aids in giving the spun body friction.
Of course you can add friction by manually applying it with your fingers in the same manner as you would with the pinch and twist dubbing method. On the other hand you loose percision in the tying process as it is really difficult ot exactly have the right amount of exposed thread so one can apply the friction up close to the hook and not leave a tell tale hump at the back of the body from using up the extra tying thread This is really a concern when using Pearsall's Gossamer and tying smaller flies.
As for does the fishes preference/ effectiveness you can not dissuade me otherwise. I have seen the difference in number os strikes and size of fish caught.
As I remember it Hans, you could see the diference but questioned the worth of the Leisenring dubbing loop. Perhaps you will be staying at my place for next years FFF Conclave? We can have this merry discussion out on the Madison, maybe then you will be a convert.
Jim

[Hans Weilenmann]

Jim,

You are on

Cheers,
Hans W

[Soft-hackle]

Hi,
While I was not positive about the differences in the results between the Leisenring method (notice I said similar results) and other methods of twisted dubbing, I CAN attest to the success of fishing flies tied in this manner. I utilize this method almost exclusively when tying flymphs with only a few exceptions, and I find that flies tied this way catch fish consistently.

Jim, it never occurred to me that with the rolling of the thread on the pant-leg, and the friction produced softened and volume-ized the dubbing. A good point and great observation. Perhaps I do not have to change my statement after all. Thanks for the explanation.

After reading your explanation I can see the importance of also having the swede strip on the dubbing block under the thread. An important feature for sure.

Mark

[Hans Weilenmann]

*chuckle*

Mark,

Please note I remain far from convinced by Jim's explanation, but we will postpone that battle till on Jim's home turf. He will need any advantage he can grab

Cheers,
Hans W

[Soft-hackle]

I know, I know, Hans. Are you sure you weren't born in Missouri ( The " Show-me" state)?

We shall see!

Mark

[FliTrap]

Now, I'm laughing, for I live in the "Show Me State"!
Really, though, you all did a fine job to explain a process for which I have no experience! In all my tying, I work with either the dubbing loop method or one of several "touch dubbing methods", including a method of applying dubbing by spinning it on with fingers, to "dry thread'. Each has its benefit under different needs! Like all other methods of tying, I'll have to play with the idea see where I can apply it!
But, yet another question;
Is it the wax, then that will not only bind the dubbing to the thread, but also assist in keeping the dubbing brush from "unwinding"? I realize how the slotted cards are used to store the brushes, but in working with them off the card, would they not "untwist"?
Thanks to all!
Flitrap

[Soft-hackle]

Hi,
To some extent, yes, the wax assists in keeping the thread from untwisting. Jim Slattery has some great wax especially for this purpose. If used correctly, it will help keep the brush together. If you store the bodies on cards, stretched tight across, you will find that even a short stay stretched in this manner also assists in keeping it twisted fairly well. I have recently changed my technique by making the brush first in the tying process. Then stretch it in the slits of the card that was shown in the illustration. This holds it in place for a few minutes while I prepare the hackle, put the hook in the vise, cast on the thread, etc. By the time I'm ready for the brush, it seems pretty well set. If I plan on making two of the pattern, and I usually do, the bodies can be constructed just before tying starts, stretched on cards and held till I need them in a few minutes. At least that seems to work well for me.

Get in contact with Jim concerning the tying wax.

Mark

[DOUGSDEN]

Fellow's,
This is bizarre! I came home from work this evening and made two spinning blocks out of a piece of poplar-like wood I found. I have not sanded them or finished them in any way just yet so the post by Jim about having the blocks not level but slightly concaved really caught my attention! I will keep an eye on the curvature (spelling ?) of each piece and have even considered sanding each edge down slightly (not much just a fraction) to enhance the concaved-ness. I'll keep you posted on this!
I also got out the Pearsalls silks and furs and wax and I am planning on spinning some flymph bodies "on the thigh". And, that conversation also caught my attention. I am really tuned in to what you fellows are putting out there. Please keep talking! I'm all ears!
The timing of all this is really unbelievable. Thanks everyone!
With sander and silks in hand,
Dougsden

[wsbailey]

On pages 100 - 102 there is an interesting section on spinning blocks. Bill

http://books.google.com/books?id=yYlpfJ ... q=&f=false