FLYMPH FORUM

A while back, Bill (wsbailey) made mentioned that it takes a light hand, when using chemicals in the dying process. The comment reminded me of my college chemistry classes, where we would do titration experiments, neutralizing acidic mixtures with bases. The pH scale is a logorithmic scale, meaning that each number represents a ten fold change in concentration. When you are near a pH of 7 (neutral), it take only a tiny amount of acid of base to tip the scale in either direction.

Bill - I found your comment to be sage advice.

Anyway, this just gave me an opportunity to share a couple references I found, after reading Bill's comment.




Funny how I can tie so many aspects back to fly tying.

I try to forget my college chemistry classes.

Awesome chart Ray! The odd thing is that I don't have a clue about modern chemistry. I took a class in high school and never learned a single thing. Now I practically have a chemistry lab. When I was in grade school I had one of those chemistry sets that were so common back then. This book makes a great refresher course.

https://books.google.com/books?id=iZVCN ... re&f=false

I had one of those too. The rubber egg was the best!

Old Hat wrote: ↑Wed Dec 26, 2018 12:46 pm I try to forget my college chemistry classes.

I think I probably taught your class.

Chuckle! That’s funny.

There are 3 principal types of acid dyes -- leveling, milling, and pre-metallized. The recommended pH range for these are: leveling pH 2-4, milling pH 3-5 and pre-metallized pH 6. The overlap in pH between the leveling and milling dyes lets you use vinegar or citric acid. The pre-metallized dyes require a pH buffer be added to keep the pH in a narrow range. A lot of folks use sulfuric or hydrochloric acid with the leveling dyes. In fact, the data sheet from FlyDye lists those colors that require sulfuric acid to develop the full color.

Charlie

The levelling acid dyes are my favorite synthetic dyes except for black. They aren't as readily available in the US anymore in small amounts. They are practically foolproof. The easiest way to get them now is the Cushing line of dyes.

https://www.moonlightfeather.com/Cushin ... r-dye.html

Bill is correct about Cushings Dyes. The other suppliers have a mix of leveling and milling dyes.

For a black black use a pre-metallized dye. A pain to use but a great result.

Charlie