Moldy Plum Revisited
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- letumgo
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Thanks Hank. That would explain all the "junk in my trunk."
Wayne - Have you seen Charlie Craven's new book ("Charlies Fly Box")? He has a whole range of flies that are tyed with various colors of Superhair, which is then coated with epoxy. Pretty cool looking nymphs. I was thinking of using the Hydro resin to form some similar flies. The thing I like about the light cured resins is the speed. I can coat the fly, zap it with the light for 10 to 20 seconds, and then proceed with the fly. With other coatings, you generally need to wait to the end to coat the fly, or risk smearing stuff all over the fly. Otherwise, I tend to do the coatings after the fly is finished. I don't know if these coatings any difference to the fish, but they can make the tying process easier, while giving nice results.
I am looking forward to testing this stuff on Thunder Creek minnow heads. The heads tend to require a lot of fussing around, and require multiple coating/drying steps. I think the UV cured resin could speed up the process. We'll see...
William - The resin penetrates the silk, causing it to darken, the same way water does. Your question has given me an idea. I wonder if Elmers glue could be used over the silk. It tends to brush on white, but dries clear. It may behave in the same way that color preserver fluid works for rod building. Worth a try anyway.
Wayne - Have you seen Charlie Craven's new book ("Charlies Fly Box")? He has a whole range of flies that are tyed with various colors of Superhair, which is then coated with epoxy. Pretty cool looking nymphs. I was thinking of using the Hydro resin to form some similar flies. The thing I like about the light cured resins is the speed. I can coat the fly, zap it with the light for 10 to 20 seconds, and then proceed with the fly. With other coatings, you generally need to wait to the end to coat the fly, or risk smearing stuff all over the fly. Otherwise, I tend to do the coatings after the fly is finished. I don't know if these coatings any difference to the fish, but they can make the tying process easier, while giving nice results.
I am looking forward to testing this stuff on Thunder Creek minnow heads. The heads tend to require a lot of fussing around, and require multiple coating/drying steps. I think the UV cured resin could speed up the process. We'll see...
William - The resin penetrates the silk, causing it to darken, the same way water does. Your question has given me an idea. I wonder if Elmers glue could be used over the silk. It tends to brush on white, but dries clear. It may behave in the same way that color preserver fluid works for rod building. Worth a try anyway.
Ray (letumgo)----<°))))))><
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Who needs a fly tying book when I have you?
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Ray, very nice tie with some exotic South Pacific materials added. . I like seeing this stuff show up tied well by others.
You will have to tie more of them, the abdoen may not shred...... but the herl would given time and some toothy gilled critters. Even reinforced with the thread, but sometimes they fish better with some trailing herl and a bit ragged looking.
How about clear nail varnish or CA super glue for a body coating on the abdomen? Elmers might penetrate better rather than form a hard skin like nail varnish will?
You will have to tie more of them, the abdoen may not shred...... but the herl would given time and some toothy gilled critters. Even reinforced with the thread, but sometimes they fish better with some trailing herl and a bit ragged looking.
How about clear nail varnish or CA super glue for a body coating on the abdomen? Elmers might penetrate better rather than form a hard skin like nail varnish will?
- letumgo
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Jeff - I like using CA super glue over silk bodies. It gives me really nice results in the winter time, when the humidity is low. Unfortunately, I have gotten mixed results in the summer. I have had problems with white spots when the super glue dries. I'm pretty sure that it is the humidity that causes the discoloration. I use a brushable form of super glue, which is very thin. It easily penetrates the silk and makes a very durable, yet translucent body. I just don't like waiting around while the stuff dries. I've also tried clear head cement and nail polish, but I don't like the results as good as the super glue. Superglue seems to dry a bit harder and glossier.
Thanks again for the bronze peacock herl. This stuff is gorgeous. What a treat.
Thanks again for the bronze peacock herl. This stuff is gorgeous. What a treat.
Ray (letumgo)----<°))))))><
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- crazy4oldcars
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Ray,letumgo wrote: William - The resin penetrates the silk, causing it to darken, the same way water does. Your question has given me an idea. I wonder if Elmers glue could be used over the silk. It tends to brush on white, but dries clear. It may behave in the same way that color preserver fluid works for rod building. Worth a try anyway.
Elmer's is susceptible to water when it dries. It will cloud back up and absorb water.
I would think the solvent is the key in the color protecting coatings used on rod wraps. If you don't want the color to change on a fly, I would guess that would be the stuff to use.
Kirk
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Thanks Kirk. I appreciate the feedback.
Ray (letumgo)----<°))))))><
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Great fly Ray! I am a huge fan of the uv cleared resins. I used some on the tinsel of the Black Pennell variation. I also used it on one of the Black Pennells, the one with the oval rib. The thin one was just one coat of head cement. I would never try to use the uv resin on a tiny fly head. But they are great for certain types of flies. I really like coating bodies with them for added durability.
- letumgo
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Hey Jim - I had a chance to play around a little more with the brushable UV resin and I am liking this stuff. Today I was playing around with a synthetic version of a Thundercreek Minnow. I like being able to give the head a thin coat, zap it with light to cure it, add the eyes, zap it again, and then one last layer to get the shape of the head, zap it again and it's done. When I use regular epoxy, this same sequence can take hours while I waited for everything to cure properly between steps.
Letumgo's Lake Erie Shiner
Hook - TMC Model 700 / Size 6
Thread - 8/0 UNI-Thread (White)
Tinsel Core - 5 Strands of UV Gray Krystal Flash (Folded over tying thread and tyed in)
Back - Small bundle of Fly Tyer's Dungeon Congo Hair (Minnow Back Blend / blended mixture of black and green congo hair)
Belly - Small bundle of Fly Tyer's Dungeon Congo Hair (Lake Erie Letumgo Blend / blended mixture of silver, yellow, pale olive and lavender congo hair)
Eyes - 1/8" Holographic 3D stick on eyes (Gold)
Head - Clear Coat Goo Brushable Cure Resin / cured with UV light/lamp/torch
Gills - Drawn on with Red Sharpie Marker
Minnow profile is trimmed after the fly is complete. I find that it is easiest to trim the fly from the back. Long scissors make the job easier and gives better results.
(Sorry Mark - For the non-soft hackle content. I just wanted to let Jim know that the resin stuff was working out well for me. Thanks Jim.)
Letumgo's Lake Erie Shiner
Hook - TMC Model 700 / Size 6
Thread - 8/0 UNI-Thread (White)
Tinsel Core - 5 Strands of UV Gray Krystal Flash (Folded over tying thread and tyed in)
Back - Small bundle of Fly Tyer's Dungeon Congo Hair (Minnow Back Blend / blended mixture of black and green congo hair)
Belly - Small bundle of Fly Tyer's Dungeon Congo Hair (Lake Erie Letumgo Blend / blended mixture of silver, yellow, pale olive and lavender congo hair)
Eyes - 1/8" Holographic 3D stick on eyes (Gold)
Head - Clear Coat Goo Brushable Cure Resin / cured with UV light/lamp/torch
Gills - Drawn on with Red Sharpie Marker
Minnow profile is trimmed after the fly is complete. I find that it is easiest to trim the fly from the back. Long scissors make the job easier and gives better results.
(Sorry Mark - For the non-soft hackle content. I just wanted to let Jim know that the resin stuff was working out well for me. Thanks Jim.)
Ray (letumgo)----<°))))))><
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"The world is perfect. Appreciate the details." - Dean
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Ray, I knew you'd like that uv resin. I LOVE IT. I like the idea of a synthetic Thunder Creek. You did a lovely job on it. I have attempted Thunder Creeks in the past a couple of times. They are harder than they look, mainly because of the HEAD....lol.
K
K
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Re: Moldy Plum Revisited
Kelly - I know exactly what you mean. The Thunder Creek pattern kicked my butt at first. It took me a whole weekend, and a lot of practice to get close to the classic shape.
Ray (letumgo)----<°))))))><
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