Here's the sequence most of the time when using a bead on a blind eye hook. i begin the fly just behind the point of the hook.....up front.....just in back of the blind or missing eye. When the fly is finished i only want to be able to see that point, and NO more.....if i can see it, THAT's ENOUGH, NO more. Then i take the thread all the way down to where i will start my tip and or tag, stopping right before directly above the point of the barb, UNLESS i have made a conscious decision to go beyond there (the point of the barb), with the tip and or tag, for a reason. Normally i start my tip or tag, with the first turn (occassionally two turns) on bare hook shank. That gets just a little bit of a taper goin'.....looks cool. Then i finish my tip and tag or just tag, depending....then i do my tail if there's goin' to be a tail.....then the butt (same thing), IF there's going to be one.....and then depending on the design of the fly.....any and everything else until it's time for the bead. It all depends on where the bead is goin' to go. Then the bead.....then the eye.....then finish the fly. Point is, you cannot do the eye until "AFTER" the bead is on.....and you can only put the bead on when it's time for the bead.
Now here's one tip i'll give you now.....write it down.....i hate havin' to repeat myself unessessarily.

When you DO attache your eye, and i'll have a tutorial for you later on/bout that.....make SURE that when your sucking on it to soften the gut before you ever form your loop.....that you nibble on both ends a little.....chew them frayed.....just use your teeth to slightly seperate the twist. So after you have your gut bout half way or so attached, you can take your bodkin, and seperate the strands.....of the twisted gut. Then you want to take you scissors and stagger cut the tag ends at different lengths, to maintain the taper of the hook. So suck on it for 2/3/4 minutes until you feel it's become soft enough.....(BUT NOT to soft.....remember, it's protein), to form your loop. Form your loop by putting a bobbin or equivalent in the center of the strand and pinching it tight on both sides of the loop your forming. Those pinch spots are approximately exactly where you will make you initial first wrap to tye it in/lash it down. You'll have to pratice this quite a few times until you become happy with the results your getting. And you'll have to find what you like best. It's very personal as to the style of eye you want to be known for. This is not craft.....it is ART. You have to know your craft to be a good artist.....but do NOT do it like every or any one else has 500K times before you, simply because that's the way they did it. Find your own voice. So, and this leads me to the most important part, in the sense that it's actually the end of the turorial.....guess you got it before i was planning on giving it to you. Best laid plans.....ah ah ah...ah......ah, i'm sorry officer, i just couldn't help myself.
You BETTER be writing this down or printing it.....but don't get me wrong.....this is just the last time i will do this here. Next time, it's private.
Now here's the decision you have to come to terms with.....and i reccommend you try it both ways to be able to find not only what you like best.....but what works for you the best. Many Salmon fly tyers, tye their gut in on the bottom of the hook. Maybe even "most" do. i tye in on the sides of the hook. Those who tye in on the bottom, usually do so because it has everything to do with keeping a certain taper goin' when workin with floss. But when you do that.....the eye always ends up below the hook shank and it looks like crap imho. The point of the hook up above an eye that hangs down below.....a VERY lame look. Not symetrical at all.....not to mention that when you tye in on the sides, your giving yourself a MUCH wider and better (more stable) platform to mount your wing on. Also, the point of the hook will now be comming right dead center out of the head, and down the center of the eye, not lookin' stupid up above the eye. When workin' with a floss body, you might want to do it the other way.....but i always do it (mount the gut) on the sides. You'll have to try it both ways.....or invent a way of your own.

Hey, stranger things have happened.
Be aware of course, that when i've been refering to "the point" of the hook just lately here.....i mean the blind eye point, not the part that would stick into a fishes mouth.
So remember, pre-twisted gut has to be soaked.....we all suck on it til it's soft.....usually takin' bout 2/3/4 minutes.....and chew on the ends to roughen 'em up a bit. Don't nibble on much more than the fIrst quarter of an inch up from both tags ends. The entire piece of gut you need for an eye is usually no longer than an inch.....no matter what hook size.....you match the diameter of the gut as best you can to the diameter of the hook shank. So length has nothin' to do with it. You will need two strand gut, three strand, and four strand.....at least to get started with a good variety of hook sizes. Some of the gut i use has maybe 20 strands.....but that' the antique violin string gut for example.
We'll save that for another episode.
OH! One more thing.....when attachng your gut, be sure not to pull straight down or up at least in the beginning.....take your thread and as you tighten, pull directly away from your self and directly to yourself. Don't put the pressure on the up and down aspects of the turns.....put it on the away from you, and towards you aspects of the turns. That will help trememdously in not rolling your gut and getting it all messed up, and also insure you keep a nice flat surface for your wing mount and help you begin a great foundation for a beautiful head.

p.s. don't forget what i already told you all about forgetting everything you ever learned about not crowding the eye.....you DO want to crowd the eye.....if you need more help understanding what that's all about, just ask.
